The next SewHayleyJane box came with this beautiful feeling cotton sateen fabric, complete with a border at both selvedges. So that gives me a challenge to make something that uses the border, but means cutting at right angles to the grain.
I chose the Bettine pattern by Tilly and the Buttons. Three main reasons: I can make use of both borders: at the bottom of the dress, and on the sleeve cuffs; I was confident the dress hem was straight enough to accommodate the border; and finally the dress has pockets! It's the second TATB pattern in a row, but this one was a PDF from the website, which meant I didn't have to trace it!
The main trick was cutting out at right angles to the normal grain line. I tried to be careful to ensure the border at the dress hem and on the cuffs/tabs were all in line.
The skirt and bodice of the dress are cut separately. I did not go to the effort of pattern matching the pieces, which actually is a bit of a shame. I got a bit scared off by the fact that each piece has a large seam at that point, and hoped it would magic itself perfect! I'm lucky that the elasticated waist does hide the join.
The first piece to come together is the bodice. It has facing for the neckline. I always struggle with neckline facings, somehow they always seem bigger inside than they should be. This is the best I've managed so far though, and it's been helped a bit by hand stitching it down too.
The next piece is the sleeves. I did the optional tabs, because I could show off the border with them. But then spent ages trying to figure out exactly which layout option for cuffs and tabs that I wanted!
Tilly and the Buttons - Bettine
Cotton Sateen - In my garden
Hand stitching the neck facing down is useful.
Cibola Burn- James SA Corey ⏳