So my first pattern is for a desk toy for a friend/colleague. She loves pugs. So I've looked at loads of cartoons of pugs and drawn a sketch on squared paper. My sketches have got to the point where I think I've figured out the relative proportions and that I've learned that pugs have a curly tail.
A couple of techniques I will use are:
Pattern
Just as a quick note, when I do small toys I tend not to do the spiral amigurumi. Instead I'll work a circle, join with a slip stitch and then chain 1 (or whatever number is appropriate for the stitches I'm using): counting it as the first stitch.
I've turned this work between each round as some parts aren't worked in rounds.
Yarn:
I've got loads of leftover yarn. The stuff I've used here is 4 ply and I've worked with a 3.5mm hook. I don't think tension/gauge needs to be too exact though. I've just planned for four colours: a very light brown and a darker brown for the pug itself, a tiny bit of white or cream for the eyes and a tiny bit of contrasting yarn for a collar.
Other notions:
I've also used toy stuffing and a pair of 9mm toy eyes.
Other notions:
I've also used toy stuffing and a pair of 9mm toy eyes.
Base:
I started this with the lighter brown colour. I had a 20g ball of yarn, and had some left at the end. So this is probably great for your leftover wool.
I started this with the lighter brown colour. I had a 20g ball of yarn, and had some left at the end. So this is probably great for your leftover wool.
# | UK terms | US terms | |
---|---|---|---|
1 | 4 dc into magic ring | 4 sc into magic ring | 4 |
2 | 3 dc into each stitch, repeat to end | 3 sc into each stitch, repeat to end | 12 |
3 | *2 dc, 3 dc into next stitch*, repeat to end | *2 sc, 3 sc into next stitch*, repeat to end | 20 |
4 | 2 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 4 dc* repeat 3 times, 2 dc | 2 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 4 sc* repeat 3 times, 2 sc | 28 |
5 | 4 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 6 dc* repeat 3 times, 2 dc | 4 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 6 sc* repeat 3 times, 2 sc | 36 |
6 | 4 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 8 dc* repeat 3 times, 4 dc | 4 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 8 sc* repeat 3 times, 4 sc | 44 |
7 | 6 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 10 dc* repeat 3 times, 4 dc | 6 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 10 sc* repeat 3 times, 4 sc | 52 |
That's the base of the pug done now. Time to start working on it's body. I love creating a definite ridge in the work, it provides a natural place for the work to fold. So I've done this here by working the next row into the back loops. There's also a small decrease in size coming up.
Body:
I did this part by joining each row with a slip stitch, turning and then chaining 1 stitch to count as the first stitch.
# | UK terms | US terms | |
---|---|---|---|
8 | 1 dc into back loops only | 1 sc into back loops only | 52 |
9 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 52 |
10 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 52 |
11 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 52 |
12 | 11 dc, *dc2tog, 11 dc* repeat 3 times, dc2tog | 11 sc, *sc2tog, 11 sc* repeat 3 times, sc2tog | 48 |
13 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 48 |
14 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 48 |
15 | 10 dc, *dc2tog, 10 dc* repeat 3 times, dc2tog | 10 sc, *sc2tog, 10 sc* repeat 3 times, sc2tog | 44 |
16 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 44 |
17 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 44 |
18 | 9 dc, *2 dctog, 9dc* repeat 3 times, dc2tog | 9 sc, *sc2tog, 9 sc* repeat 3 times, sc2tog | 40 |
19 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 40 |
20 | 8 dc, *dc2tog, 8dc* repeat 3 times, dc2tog | 8 sc, * sc2tog, 8 sc* repeat 3 times, sc2tog | 36 |
21 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 36 |
22 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 36 |
23 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 36 |
24 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 36 |
Neck:
This is just to create a place for the collar to go. For the two rows marked with a cross I worked into the front loops only to create a bit of a marker for the collar. If you're working in spirals you may find you need to do work into back loops instead.
# | UK terms | US terms | |
---|---|---|---|
25✝ | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 36 |
26 | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 36 |
27✝ | 1 dc into each stitch | 1 sc into each stitch | 36 |
Head:
This part builds up the area for the face and then closes up with a flat square area.
# | UK terms | US terms | |
---|---|---|---|
28-39 | 1 dc into each stitch Stuff Insert eyes in 3rd row down. Near the corners of the work 6 stitches apart. | 1 sc into each stitch Stuff Insert eyes in 3rd row down. Near the corners of the work 6 stitches apart. | 36 |
40 | 3 dc, *dc3tog, 6 dc* repeat 3 times, dc3tog, 3 dc | 3 sc, *sc3tog, 6 sc* repeat 3 times, sc3tog, 3 sc | 28 |
42 | 2 dc, *dc3tog, 4 dc* repeat 3 times, dc3tog, 2 dc | 2 sc, *sc3tog, 4 sc* repeat 3 times, sc3tog, 2 sc | 20 |
43 | 1 dc, *dc3tog, 2 dc* repeat 3 times, dc3tog, 1 dc Top up stuffing if required | 1 sc, *sc3tog, 1 sc* repeat 3 times, sc3tog, 1 sc Top up stuffing if required | 12 |
44 | dc3tog 4 times Fasten off. | dc3tog 4 times Fasten off | 4 |
Tail:
Continuing with the lighter colour this will create a curly tail - just like a pug's tail!
# | UK terms | US terms | |
---|---|---|---|
1 | chain 20 | chain 20 | 20 |
2 | 4 tr into 2nd ch from hook 4 tr in each stitch to end | 4 dc into 2nd ch from hook 4 dc in each stitch to end | 72 |
Fasten off, leaving a long bit of yarn to use when sewing in. I attached it using this leftover yarn. I attached at the base of the "seam" at the back of the pug. I used the yarn to catch the tail in the second "twirl" from the base and attach the tail to the body a couple of stitches up., That helped the tail look perky, and keeps it hiding part of the seam.
Collar:
Use a contrasting color for the collar.
I used a foundation double/single crochet for the collar: working the chain and the row of stitches at the same time. There's a good tutorial on Doris Chan's site.
I did 36 stitches for this (double crochet for the UK, single for the US). This allowed me to double check the collar fitted before finishing. Mine actually came out a little larger, so I undid a stitch to fit.
You could always work in foundation chain and double/singles. I would suggest ch 37, turn, miss one chain and dc/sc to end.
Ears:
Using the darker brown colour.
Fasten off.
It makes an odd shape. And because the last half-row hasn't grown at the corner it adds a little bit of tension to the ears, but I think it shapes them well.
Sew these onto the pug's head. I folded the small edge up to meet the centre of the square and sewed the small edge over the vertex at the side of the head. I then used the wool to secure parts so that the ears flopped forward nicely.
It looks like some horrific monster right now!
Snout:
Using the darker brown colour.
Once that's done use a lighter colour yarn to sew on a nose/mouth to the snout. Then sew the snout just above the collar line.
It looks like a pug at last!
Collar:
Use a contrasting color for the collar.
I used a foundation double/single crochet for the collar: working the chain and the row of stitches at the same time. There's a good tutorial on Doris Chan's site.
I did 36 stitches for this (double crochet for the UK, single for the US). This allowed me to double check the collar fitted before finishing. Mine actually came out a little larger, so I undid a stitch to fit.
You could always work in foundation chain and double/singles. I would suggest ch 37, turn, miss one chain and dc/sc to end.
Ears:
Using the darker brown colour.
1 | 4 dc into magic ring | 4 sc into magic ring | 4 |
2 | 3 dc into each stitch, repeat to end | 3 sc into each stitch, repeat to end | 12 |
3 | *2 dc, 3 dc into next stitch*, repeat to end | *2 sc, 3 sc into next stitch*, repeat to end | 20 |
4 | 2 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 4 dc* repeat 3 times, 2 dc | 2 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 4 sc* repeat 3 times, 2 sc | 28 |
5 | 4 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 6 dc* repeat 3 times, 2 dc | 4 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 6 sc* repeat 3 times, 2 sc | 36 |
6 | dc into 18 stitches. That is do half of the square. | sc into 18 stitches. That is half of the square. | 18 |
It makes an odd shape. And because the last half-row hasn't grown at the corner it adds a little bit of tension to the ears, but I think it shapes them well.
Sew these onto the pug's head. I folded the small edge up to meet the centre of the square and sewed the small edge over the vertex at the side of the head. I then used the wool to secure parts so that the ears flopped forward nicely.
It looks like some horrific monster right now!
Snout:
Using the darker brown colour.
# | UK terms | US terms | |
---|---|---|---|
1 | 6 dc into magic ring | 6 sc into magic ring | 6 |
2 | 2 dc into each stitch to end | 2 sc into each stitch to end | 12 |
3 | 2 dc into first stitch, dc, 2 tr into third stitch, tr, (tr and dc) into fifth stitch, dc, dc, (dc and tr) into 8th stitch, tr, 2 tr into 10th stitch, dc, 2 dc into 12th stitch. | 2 sc into first stitch, sc, 2 dc into third stitch, dc, (dc and sc) into fifth stitch, sc, sc, (sc and dc) into 8th stitch, dc, 2 dc into 10th stitch, sc, 2 sc into 12th stitch. | 18 |
Once that's done use a lighter colour yarn to sew on a nose/mouth to the snout. Then sew the snout just above the collar line.
It looks like a pug at last!
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