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My first pattern: a pug


So my first pattern is for a desk toy for a friend/colleague. She loves pugs. So I've looked at loads of cartoons of pugs and drawn a sketch on squared paper.  My sketches have got to the point where I think I've figured out the relative proportions and that I've learned that pugs have a curly tail.

A couple of techniques I will use are:


 Pattern


Just as a quick note, when I do small toys I tend not to do the spiral amigurumi. Instead I'll work a circle, join with a slip stitch and then chain 1 (or whatever number is appropriate for the stitches I'm using): counting it as the first stitch. 

I've turned this work between each round as some parts aren't worked in rounds. 

Yarn:
I've got loads of leftover yarn. The stuff I've used here is 4 ply and I've worked with a 3.5mm hook. I don't think tension/gauge needs to be too exact though. I've just planned for four colours: a very light brown and a darker brown for the pug itself, a tiny bit of white or cream for the eyes and  a tiny bit of contrasting yarn for a collar.

Other notions:
I've also used toy stuffing and a pair of 9mm toy eyes.

Base:
I started this with the lighter brown colour. I had a 20g ball of yarn, and had some left at the end. So this is probably great for your leftover wool.
#UK termsUS terms
14 dc into magic ring4 sc into magic ring4
23 dc into each stitch, repeat to end3 sc into each stitch, repeat to end12
3*2 dc, 3 dc into next stitch*, repeat to end*2 sc, 3 sc into next stitch*, repeat to end20
42 dc,  *3 dc into next stitch, 4 dc* repeat 3 times, 2 dc 2 sc,  *3 sc into next stitch, 4 sc* repeat 3 times, 2 sc 28
54 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 6 dc* repeat 3 times, 2 dc4 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 6 sc* repeat 3 times, 2 sc36
64 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 8 dc* repeat 3 times, 4 dc4 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 8 sc* repeat 3 times, 4 sc44
76 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 10 dc* repeat 3 times, 4 dc6 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 10 sc* repeat 3 times, 4 sc52


That's the base of the pug done now. Time to start working on it's body. I love creating a definite ridge in the work, it provides a natural place for the work to fold. So I've done this here by working the next row into the back loops. There's also a small decrease in size coming up. 

Body:
I did this part by joining each row with a slip stitch, turning and then chaining 1 stitch to count as the first stitch.
#UK termsUS terms
8 1 dc into back loops only 1 sc into back loops only 52
9 1 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 52
10 1 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 52
111 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 52
12 11 dc, *dc2tog, 11 dc* repeat 3 times, dc2tog 11 sc, *sc2tog, 11 sc* repeat 3 times, sc2tog 48
13 1 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 48
14 1 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 48
15 10 dc, *dc2tog, 10 dc* repeat 3 times, dc2tog 10 sc, *sc2tog, 10 sc* repeat 3 times, sc2tog 44
16 1 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 44
17 1 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 44
18 9 dc, *2 dctog, 9dc* repeat 3 times, dc2tog 9 sc, *sc2tog, 9 sc* repeat 3 times, sc2tog 40
19 1 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 40
20 8 dc, *dc2tog, 8dc* repeat 3 times, dc2tog 8 sc, * sc2tog, 8 sc* repeat 3 times, sc2tog 36
21 1 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 36
221 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 36
231 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 36
24 1 dc into each stitch 1 sc into each stitch 36

Neck:
This is just to create a place for the collar to go. For the two rows marked with a cross I worked into the front loops only to create a bit of a marker for the collar. If you're working in spirals you may find you need to do work into back loops instead.

#UK termsUS terms
25✝1 dc into each stitch1 sc into each stitch36
261 dc into each stitch1 sc into each stitch36
27✝1 dc into each stitch1 sc into each stitch36

Head:
This part builds up the area for the face and then closes up with a flat square area.
#UK termsUS terms
28-391 dc into each stitch
Stuff
Insert eyes in 3rd row down. Near the corners of the work 6 stitches apart.
1 sc into each stitch
Stuff
Insert eyes in 3rd row down. Near the corners of the work 6 stitches apart.
36
403 dc, *dc3tog, 6 dc* repeat 3 times, dc3tog, 3 dc   3 sc, *sc3tog, 6 sc* repeat 3 times, sc3tog, 3 sc   28
422 dc, *dc3tog, 4 dc* repeat 3 times, dc3tog, 2 dc   2 sc, *sc3tog, 4 sc* repeat 3 times, sc3tog, 2 sc   20
431 dc, *dc3tog, 2 dc* repeat 3 times, dc3tog, 1 dc
Top up stuffing if required
1 sc, *sc3tog, 1 sc* repeat 3 times, sc3tog, 1 sc
Top up stuffing if required
12
44dc3tog 4 times
Fasten off.
 dc3tog 4 times
Fasten off
4


Tail:
Continuing with the lighter colour this will create a curly tail - just like a pug's tail!
#UK termsUS terms
1chain 20chain 2020
24 tr into 2nd ch from hook
4 tr in each stitch to end
4 dc into 2nd ch from hook
4 dc in each stitch to end
72
Fasten off, leaving a long bit of yarn to use when sewing in.  I attached it using this leftover yarn. I attached at the base of the "seam" at the back of the pug. I used the yarn to catch the tail in the second "twirl" from the base and attach the tail to the body a couple of stitches up., That helped the tail look perky, and keeps it hiding part of the seam.



Collar: 
Use a contrasting color for the collar.

I used a foundation double/single crochet for the collar: working the chain and the row of stitches at the same time. There's a good tutorial on Doris Chan's site.

I did 36 stitches for this (double crochet for the UK, single for the US). This allowed me to double check the collar fitted before finishing. Mine actually came out a little larger, so I undid a stitch to fit.

You could always work in foundation chain and double/singles. I would suggest ch 37, turn, miss one chain and dc/sc to end.

Ears:
Using the darker brown colour.
14 dc into magic ring4 sc into magic ring4
23 dc into each stitch, repeat to end3 sc into each stitch, repeat to end12
3*2 dc, 3 dc into next stitch*, repeat to end*2 sc, 3 sc into next stitch*, repeat to end20
42 dc,  *3 dc into next stitch, 4 dc* repeat 3 times, 2 dc 2 sc,  *3 sc into next stitch, 4 sc* repeat 3 times, 2 sc 28
54 dc, *3 dc into next stitch, 6 dc* repeat 3 times, 2 dc4 sc, *3 sc into next stitch, 6 sc* repeat 3 times, 2 sc36
6dc into 18 stitches. That is do half of the square.sc into 18 stitches. That is half of the square.18
Fasten off.

It makes an odd shape. And because the last half-row hasn't grown at the corner it adds a little bit of tension to the ears, but I think it shapes them well.
Sew these onto the pug's head. I folded the small edge up to meet the centre of the square and sewed the small edge over the vertex at the side of the head. I then used the wool to secure parts so that the ears flopped forward nicely.

It looks like some horrific monster right now!

Snout: 
Using the darker brown colour.
#UK termsUS terms
16 dc into magic ring6 sc into magic ring6
22 dc into each stitch to end2 sc into each stitch to end12 
32 dc into first stitch, dc, 2 tr into third stitch, tr, (tr and dc) into fifth stitch, dc, dc, (dc and tr) into 8th stitch, tr,  2 tr into 10th stitch, dc, 2 dc into 12th stitch.2 sc into first stitch, sc, 2 dc into third stitch, dc, (dc and sc) into fifth stitch, sc, sc, (sc and dc) into 8th stitch, dc, 2 dc into 10th stitch, sc, 2 sc into 12th stitch.18

Once that's done use a lighter colour yarn to sew on a nose/mouth to the snout. Then sew the snout just above the collar line.


It looks like a pug at last!

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